Trekking at Monte Roraima

Who I am
Carlos Laforet Coll
Author and references

By Tales Azzi

“It was necessary to cross the España, towards the extreme north of the country, on the triple border with Venezuela and Guyana. The objective: to climb to the Mount Roraima.

I didn't want to find any pink diamond like that of the Comendador in the telenovela, I was just dying to see some of the most original and impressive landscapes in España. The mountain has an unusual table shape. It rises vertically, with its sandstone walls about a thousand meters high, whose flat top, a stone plateau, shelters an environment totally different from anything that exists, with several species of endemic plants and amphibians.

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Indigenous Venezuelans call this tepuy geological formation. There are a hundred tepuys in the Canaima National Park, in Venezuela, Mount Roraima is the only one on the Brazilian side of the border that allows its ascent without the need for rope climbing. It has become one of the most desired destinations for brazilian trekkers, who go there attracted by its aura of mysticism, and by the exotic landscape, designed by endemic gardens, waterfalls, abysses and rocks of very curious shapes.

endemic garden

On the flight, on the way to Boa Vista, capital of Roraima, the stories I read, days before, in “O Mundo Perdido”, by writer Conan Doyle, the creator of Sherlock Holmes, never left my mind. In the book, whose story takes place on Mount Roraima, the top of the mountain is inhabited by dinosaurs and fantastic beings.

Soon I would discover that no, there are no dinosaurs there, but that Monte Roraima is indeed a great daydream. And the words of Lord Roxton, one of the characters in the book, echoed like a mantra in my mind: “Let's go on adventure, my dear young man! May open spaces and mysterious lands allow us the joy of discovery.”

Three hours after taking off from Brasília (a mandatory connection for those coming from São Paulo) the plane approached Boa Vista, piercing clouds that looked like cotton wool.

I imagined finding a city stuck in the Floresta amazônica, but what I saw from the window of the plane was an arid landscape, a vast desert as far as the eye could see, where the capital of the state of Roraima was located.

As soon as I disembarked I felt the hot breath. Boa Vista looks like a dry sauna. I went straight to the agency office Roraima Adventures, with which I would make my expedition. The company offers six different trekking itineraries to explore Mount Roraima, with prices ranging between R$1900 and R$3100, and another three with helicopter arrivals, which are much more expensive, starting at US$ 2.

the script of Lago Gladys, which I was about to face, is seven nights long, four of which are on top of the mountain. It would be 120km in total, which gives an average of 14km a day. All packages include the transfer from Boa Vista to Paraitepuy, already in Venezuela, where the hike begins, as well as guides, porters to take all the camping equipment and meals.

The tent is for two people, but whoever wants to, can request an individual tent, paying an extra for it (R$250). It's a good thing to have more space and privacy. Each one takes with them their own luggage: clothes, sleeping bag and thermal insulation (to cover the tent floor, essential accessory for cold nights on the mountain). The agency rents insulation and a sleeping bag, for R$ 80 each.

Ana, one of the guides, recommended that I take a maximum of 12 kg, so that the weight doesn't become too uncomfortable during the trekking. There is the possibility of hiring a porter to carry your personal luggage, which is highly recommended. There is an additional R$ 70 per day, but it is worth the investment. The trail is hard, due to the climbs and sections with rocks, and with weight on the back it becomes much more difficult.

Mount Roraima porters

I had no intention of hiring a porter (I would regret it later). So the weight of the backpack was a big concern. In addition to the clothes, I would have to bring my photographic equipment, which included a Canon 5D, two lenses and a sturdy tripod, which added almost ten extra pounds.

In addition, the list of equipment that the Roraima Adventures recommends taking it, sent in advance by email, it's not small: jacket, coats, waterproof clothes, goretex boots, papetes, second skin (thermal clothing worn underneath), raincoat… All this because, at the top of the mountain, the nights are freezing, the temperature drops close to zero degrees, and rain almost always appears.

With my luggage close to the suggested limit of 12kg, I left with the group from Boa Vista at 5 am, heading to Santa Elena de Uairen, in Venezuela, a three-hour drive. There, we had breakfast while the porters transferred our luggage to 4×4 Toyotas, before leaving for Paraitepuy, another hour's journey, the starting point of the trail. We were, in total, 32 people, 16 tourists and 16 members of the support team.

packing in paraitepuy

We left at noon, under strong sun, along an open and flat trail. Four hours later, after 15km traveled smoothly and calmly, we arrived at the first campsite. The guides set up the tents quickly and the people went to the river bath.

All camps in trekking no Monte Roraima They are wild. There is no electric light, no hot shower. The bath is in the river. And the makeshift bathroom in a tent whose interior has only a plastic stool with the seat cut out, on which each user hangs a plastic bag to do the basic necessities internationally known as “number two”.

The guides advise you to use the bathroom: throw a shovel of lime into the bag at the end of the “service”, to dehydrate the waste, tie a knot and place it next to the tent, to be collected. At first it is a little strange, but the method, although rudimentary, works well.

Porters – We can see the “bathroom” at the top of the luggage

After dinner, at eight o'clock, everyone was already retired to sleep. I had a bad first night. There was no thermal insulation and the sleeping bag was poorly padded. I practically lay on the hard floor. I still put the jacket underneath to lining it a little more, but little improved. In the morning, I was even more tired.

dinner monte roraima

Unpreparedness (in my case) is the biggest mistake that travelers can make for those who want to climb Roraima. Perhaps for lack of prior research, or for missing the briefing, the lecture that the Roraima Adventures makes with tourists the day before the trekking departure.

Other times, it is the lack of adequate physical preparation, because it is not just any contemplative walk. Climbing Mount Roraima is an expedition worthy of mountaineers, with porters and wild camping, but it's not quite as radical as other famous mountains in the South America, such as Aconcagua, for example.

Mount Roraima does not require ropes and its 2.800 meters does not cause the “bad height” but requires a good pair of legs for those willing to face it and the minimum of adequate equipment.

I confess, I was totally unprepared. There was not even a garbage bag (to roll clothes in the backpack and avoid getting them wet in case of rain), nor waterproof clothes, basic medicines, slippers and appropriate raincoat (canvas). My warm clothes were limited to a jacket and two pants, which I could not wear during the day at all, so as not to get wet with some unexpected rain. Francisco warned me: “Don't let the sleeping bag get wet. Protect it as your life.” He knew that if the sleeping bag got wet I would have even more uncomfortable nights on the mountain.

The biggest problem of all was the lack of thermal insulation to sleep. After the first night I sensed serious problems, if I didn't get one of them I would have to abort the trip, because the night cold would be unbearable on top of the mountain. Luckily, the next day, half an hour after we left the camp, at 6 am, I came across a boy with an indigenous face and asked if he would rent me the insulation.

The boy was a friend of Francisco, our guide, and agreed to rent the accessory for a mere R$20. I paid right there and guaranteed my stay on the expedition. At that moment I was already a laughing stock because of my complete lack of preparation. I would still often count on the solidarity of my traveling companions.

Over the days, I managed to borrow medicine (for heartburn and blisters), raincoat, slippers, canteen, chlorine to put in the water and duct tape. Seu Álvaro, 57, who was trekking with his daughter Aline, even offered me clothes that were left over and he wouldn't wear them. But I didn't.

On the second day, we hiked 8,5 km to the camp at the base of the mountain. The path, although shorter, was much more arduous and sweaty than the previous day, as it was all uphill. I was amazed for the first time by the strength of Dona Ledi Marchi, on the eve of her 72nd birthday. The gaúcha, from Santa Maria, was still going strong, with her MP3 player in her ears.

The base camp was very full, it was Holy Week and there were at least a hundred tents set up. It was midday, and until lunch was ready, we chatted, kind of silly, having the rock wall of the Mount Roraima right in front of our eyes. 

It's amazing how the mountain rises vertically from the ground. The clouds insist on clinging to the top, as if they were an immense white hat. Mist is a constant phenomenon, which hides and exposes the walls all the time. They serve to increase the atmosphere of mystery. “It's like stepping into the world of Jurassic Park,” guide Francisco said as he prepared lunch. And again, the stories of dinosaurs that inhabit the plateau of Mount Roraima came to my mind.

The Attack on the Summit

The next day, the third day of the trip, we woke up early and at seven we left the camp for the top: another 8,5 km of steep climb, almost entirely on rocks. The guide Ana warned us that this would be the heaviest day ever, and it was.

We walked for about an hour, in some stretches supporting with our hands to be able to climb the steep terrain, until we touch the wall of Roraima. Some put their hands on the rock and stayed there for a while in prayer. From this point on, we walk up and down a rocky path to the top, passing through a stretch known as Paço das Lágrimas.

Dona Ledi this time stayed behind but was accompanied by Tirso, head of porters, at every step. On the way, the drizzle pressed, the rain in the top of Roraima it is common and I was worried about keeping my backpack and sleeping bag dry. They were protected only with garbage bags that I could borrow, while everyone had canvas covers suitable for trekking. My boot got soaked and I would have to spend the next few days with wet feet all the time, as it's impossible to dry anything with so much moisture that there is on top of the mountain.

Upon reaching the top, a first glimpse of the landscape: rocky ground with huge stones in curious shapes and low plants that seem to compose a garden created by a professional landscaper, among them many bromeliads and small orchids.

Endemic bromeliad

About 60% of the plant species on Monte Roraima are endemic, they only exist there in that ecosystem cold and terribly damp. But at that moment photographing was impossible with the rain. And I was very tired, I just wanted to get out of that bad weather. Francisco and Ana then took the lead and took us, in about an hour, to the camp: a cave where we would make our first overnight stay on the Roraima plateau, known as “Hotel Guachero”.

The porters had already arrived with the luggage and were setting up the tents. I took a bath in the stream that ran beside the cave and finally put on a dry suit. At one point, while walking through the cave, I tripped over a rock and dropped my flashlight, which went through a crack. "It's always possible to get worse," I thought. I started to use the camera monitor to illuminate the interior of the tent. But I could not use this feature exaggeratedly so as not to consume all the battery stock, otherwise I would be unable to photograph.

The questions

Again I couldn't sleep at night, lost in thought, uncomfortable with the hard floor. It was very cold that morning and I had to put on almost all my winter clothes: jacket, second skin, two pants and two socks. I was warm and, for a moment, just happy to be dry and warm.

The next day, my concern about the lack of dry clothes increased. To lighten the weight of the luggage I ended up taking little clothes, they only had three clean shirts and a pair of shorts. I couldn't wear both pants while hiking, as they were my guarantee of warm nights and I still had five more days to go.

I began to wish for the end of the expedition and to count the hours to return home. The lack of adequate equipment to face a mountain trekking was eliminating any chance of enjoyment, distract me only in moments of conversations in the camps or taking pictures during the hikes.

Because of the perrengues, my storyline had changed. Instead of writing about Mount Roraima, I was interested in finding out why people face so many discomforts on a trip like this. What, after all, would be the pleasure of mountaineering?

What's the fun of walking 15km a day on hills and rocks, sneaking into crevices, carrying weight, facing the cold and rain, with a sore body, sleeping on the hard ground, risking falls and sprains? Why did those people, common people, civil servants, liberal professionals from the big city, get into a mountain facing all kinds of adversity? Why do they spend a lot of money to cross España and get into a typical Indian program like that? A forest of questions popped into my mind.

the first answers

At seven in the morning we went to another point on the plateau, the Hotel Coati. Hotel is what they call the caves that allow you to set up camp, it was 14 km away. The weather cooperated and the rain finally gave a truce. I started to better admire the top of Mount Roraima: all in stone, with exotic plants, some of them insectivorous.

The gardens are beautiful, not even Burle Marx on an inspired day I would be able to do something similar because there is nothing like it in the whole world. The microclimate of Roraima is unique and supports a very unique flora and as there are very few insects to prey on them, the plants remain intact, without eaten or rotten leaves. Francisco kept pointing to the exotic flowers and plants, he knows by heart the popular and scientific name of almost all of them, during the whole journey, a mist accompanied us.

The thick fog sometimes covered the whole view and sometimes showed the rock formations. I started to relax and photograph more intensely those fantastic scenarios, at a certain point, we arrived at a stone canyon where there was a lake for swimming. A minute later, another canyon appeared whose floor is covered in quartz crystals, hence the name of the place: Valley of Crystals.

valley of crystals

We arrived at Coatí camp around two in the afternoon. The cave is beautiful, with a flat sand floor, plenty of space to set up tents and an internal garden. “It's Roraima's five-star,” Francisco said.

Dona Ledi began to show signs of fatigue and huddled in the tent to rest her legs for a long period right after lunch. I then went down to bathe in a nearby pond under a freezing wind.

The rain came again and forced us to chat with tea. He felt exhausted but relieved. We would stay two nights at the “Hotel Coatí”. No need to carry the backpack the next day. We would just take a short “hop-up” ride to the Lago Gladys.

Those camping moments were pretty peaceful. After the walk, lunch was soon served (usually pasta or rice with beans, meat and salad).

makeshift kitchen on the trail

We were waiting for the porters to set up the tents before packing our luggage and showering. Then it was chatting and playing cards to spend some time. It was an important break to relax your legs. At eight in the evening everyone was already retired, and a short time later the symphony of snores could be heard echoing inside the cave. I was lucky enough to stay in an individual tent as Mr. Pedro, from Rio Claro-SP, paid extra to have a tent just for him, so the men were in an odd number and I got a tent just for me.

On the fifth day, Ana woke us up at 4:30 am to see the Sunrise at the viewpoint two hundred meters from the camp. The sun was about to rise over the horizon when we reached the edge of the cliff. The sky was clear and below, on the plain, a mattress of clouds. It was the most beautiful sunrise I've ever seen. Really special.

Mirante do Coati

The porters were also present, and the whole group, moved, joined in prayer. I was stunned to be on top of that mountain, above the clouds. “It's a spectacle, it always impresses me, no matter how many times I see it”, confided Manuel Lorenzo, one of the porters. “Are you seeing a photographer? A scene like this is not seen there in Vila Mariana, in São Paulo”, joked my friend Álvaro.

At the top of that lookout, under the first light of the morning, there was peace and happiness. And I was beginning to understand the pleasure of mountaineering. It was as if this place was the safest place in the world, a sanctuary, free from evil. It seemed that all the hardships we had experienced until arriving there had been worth it, the cold, the rain, the sleepless nights, the tired legs… it was all part of a rite of passage. It is the way the mountain has found to prepare the visitor, to eliminate vanity and foolish needs, to understand its greatness.

We are small and fragile in the face of the eternal, I thanked, finally, for being there. Still drunk with the dawn show, we had breakfast and headed to Lake Gladys: 6km along the shore of the Cotingo River, with reddish waters. We didn't carry weight as the backpacks were left in the camp. To be even more free, I even left the tripod and went out with just the camera and lens.

Lago Gladys

Dona Ledi was always behind the group on walks. She followed at a slower pace, but was always accompanied by one of the guides. I liked to walk with her, because I had time to take pictures calmly without getting too far away.

Dona Ledi didn't complain, even with her tired legs. It was pure sympathy. I came to have a deep admiration for her. In about an hour and a half, we arrived at Lake Gladys. The lake is all surrounded by a rock wall so you can see it from above.

I had the impression that Professor Challenger's dinosaurs, from the book “The Lost World”, would appear there at any moment to drink water. The name of the lake, by the way, was given in the book by the protagonist of the story, the journalist Edward Malone, named after his girlfriend, Gladys. The lake was the furthest point we reached on Mount Roraima. From then on it would just be a return.

the moat

We were already on the sixth day of the trip. Ana woke us up again at 4:30 am to see the sunrise, it was the opportunity to repeat the beautiful experience of the previous day. I anticipated to arrive earlier, but on the way I slipped and felt again an old injury in my left shoulder that had taken a long time to disappear. On the other hand, the sky was clear again and we were treated to another unforgettable sunrise.

We left after breakfast, back to Guachero's cave, walking under a beautiful sunny day, much more pleasant than with the persistent rain of the previous days. On the way, we stopped at triple point, the stone framework that borders Spain, Venezuela and Guyana, established in the Marshal Rondon's expedition, in 1931. It is a classic among mountaineers. The crowd went into ecstasy. everyone took pictures, some with flags of España and football clubs.

From there we set off for the Moat, one of the great attractions of the mountain. It is a waterfall that falls into a large, round hole forming a lake inside. Said like that, it seems simple and banal. But the Mount Roraima is not given to banalities, it is necessary to consider that this lake is partially underground and to access it it is necessary to enter a cave through a crack in the ground. In one word: sensational!

We arrived at the cave in the early afternoon. I took advantage of the sun and spread out my clothes and boots on a rock to dry, in an hour everything was dry. I finally had the boots dry after four days of wearing them wet.
Next to the rock, in a hole, I noticed a lot of garbage bags thrown. It was the camp dump.

I was then concerned about the conservation of that ecosystem and the contamination of the mountain water, which is a huge source of drinking water. The agency Roraima Adventures he instructed us to use chlorine tablets to put in the water in the canteens half an hour before drinking, which I did not adopt at first and there, when I saw the garbage bags in the hole, I realized the reason for such a measure.

Garbage and waste handling seems not to have been resolved in Roraima, and without visitation control, the situation seems to be worrying. As it was a long holiday, the camps were full on the plateau and from Guachero lookout we saw the base camp below, taken over by tents that seemed to form a small village. On a conservative estimate, it would be possible to say that at least 500 people climbed the mountain that weekend.

so much so that the Guachero lookout, where we had just returned to start our return, was crowded with tourists coming from other caves, or “hotels”. But I couldn't complain about that, one of those tourists ended up helping me a lot.

When trying to take a picture of some people lying on the edge of the cliff watching the view, my lens filter came off, bounced on the ground, rolled capriciously towards the cliff and when it started to free fall was grabbed by a girl who stretched out her arm. to make the rescue, saving me from a loss of R$ 250 in the purchase of a new filter. In fact, the filter was the polarizer, which I consider essential for landscape photos and which would still be very useful in the images I took hours later at the end of the day.

I chose an isolated spot on the cliff that offered me an unobstructed view of the rocky wall and stayed there for almost two hours, until a beam of sunlight escaped through the clouds and helped to compose one of the best photos I took during the trip.

From a photographic point of view, I had, until then, material well above the average of any other report I've done in the last ten years working with travel and tourism journalism, and I was much more relaxed because of that.

yoga gazebo in the guachero

The comeback

It was time to go back. Down the mountain and heading home, but my mission wasn't over yet. José Marques, 51, the nicest porter, promised to guide me to Jacuzzi, a stream with crystal clear water wells, before starting the descent of the mountain.

The group went ahead, José and I detoured along a trail of approximately one hour to the “Jacuzzi”. José carried about 23 kilos on his back. He walked fast, stopping only to point out some stones with shapes that resembled a rabbit, turtle, camel, alligator… After an hour of photographing the Jacuzzi wells, the clock pointed to eight o'clock and we started our return journey.

In another hour of walking, we reached the slope of the cliff, the same one we came a few days before, the only part of the mountain where it is possible to access the plateau without using ropes. It was a beautiful sunny day, the stones were dry and there was a very soft mist in the air. There was no rain, no cold, no anxiety, no nothing, I was at peace. At one point, I stopped to rest. I looked up and had a close-up view of the wall for the last time, I reached out to say goodbye and thanked the mountain. She had gotten his message. I wanted to cry but there was no time for that. I wanted to catch up with the group at base camp again.

The descent was painful. My legs started to weaken. They were fine up until that point, but fatigue gripped them. I took the first Dorflex to ease the muscle pain. Close to the camp I found Dona Ledi on the trail. Tirso, the head porters, patiently accompanied her, hand in hand, although exhausted, the 72-year-old woman had the same smile, the same sweet words. She did not accept the Dorflex I offered. “I don't like medicine,” she said.

Other people who passed her on the trail admired Dona Ledi's strength. They stopped to talk, to take pictures together, she was satisfied with these meetings and followed her long way step by step. I followed them for a while, then lengthened my stride, as my luggage seemed to weigh more and more.

The group had already left when I arrived at base camp. I had lunch. He distributed Dorflex to the porters who were still resting and set off along the road towards the camp of the Rio Trek. We wouldn't stay overnight at the base, it would be the longest day to travel, about 20 km (counting my detour to go to Jacuzzi). Luckily, it was just a descent.

Every now and then, I would stop to look back, only to catch another glimpse of the mountain, with its cloud hat and mist, growing farther and farther away. On the way, the soles of my boots started to loosen and I secured them with duct tape I'd borrowed. It worked well, but with the sole loose the bubbles started to appear and bother.

river trek camp

Around four in the afternoon, I reached the Rio Kukenan, just 3 km from the camp where we would spend the last night of the expedition. I dropped my backpack and went to take a shower in the cold water, I think it was the best shower of the trip. Then I stayed by the riverside until the end of the day to photograph the mountain and river in the evening light. Everyone had already left.

It started to get dark, the full moon appeared wonderful, right next to the Mount Roraima. I decided to stay there longer, to take a night photograph, with the starry sky. But just before completely dark, Tirso arrived with three more porters. It was a rescue team. They were worried about my delay and went to get me.

“These rocks are infested with rattlesnakes at night,” said Tirso. I didn't dare to stay there a minute longer, but my friends weren't in any hurry, nor did they seem annoyed. They laughed and took pictures of the full moon with their cell phones.

rio kuenam

In the camp, the generator was on, and some natives were selling cold beer in the little bars adapted in mud huts. I bought drinks for the “rescue team” and then went to sleep. It was the best night of the entire trip.

At six in the morning we started the final march to Paraitepuy. The blisters were bigger and more painful, making the way back longer and harder. With the hot sun and weak legs, I stopped several times to relieve the weight of my back for a few minutes, sang Raul Seixas to spend time.

Everyone looked tired, walked quietly, at a slow pace, eager to get there. I was noticeably thinner and my face was burning with the sun.

mount roraima trail protection

Why do people do mountaineering? Maybe because life needs some moments of adventure like that. Of something that makes us lose balance, just so we can rebalance ourselves again, aggrandized.

It is likely that in the comfort of my home, lying on the sofa, I often remember these moments of adventure in Roraima. It was a phenomenal break from routine. We walked like crazy, in the sun and rain, we slept in tents inside caves, we woke up at four in the morning, we were deprived of television and communication for eight days.

The long walk tests our strength, physical and mental, requires a determination and persistence that do not emerge in everyday life. Many adversities come along the way, but you can't give up in the middle of the trail, you have to keep going. Luckily, there are also beauties and joys along the way. So you decide: are you going to complain or enjoy the trip? Will you be happy or sad? Just choose, as Dona Ledi did, who never lost her good mood.

Dona Ledi already knew the message of the mountain. She is a veteran hiker, has traveled the Camino de Santiago and the trails of Torres del Paine, in Chile, and El Chaltén, in Patagonia – Argentina. Even so, she assured that of all the trips she made to Monte Roraima, it was the one that most marked her. There is really something special about this table-shaped mountain.

I was the last to arrive in Paraitepuy, the beginning and end of our trekking. I was exhausted. When I saw the houses in the village, I remembered again the book “O Mundo Perdido” and the words that close the penultimate chapter, pronounced by the protagonist-narrator, the journalist Edward Malone, a fictional professional colleague, who, like me, wrote a day-to-day account of the things he experienced on the mountain. “Our eyes have seen wonders without equal and our spirits have been purified by trials. Without a doubt, we are other men, transformed by the splendid experience we have just lived”.

Author's Note: Don't do it with this author and go prepared for the trekking, with suitable mountaineering clothing, raincoats suitable for trekking, softened shoes to avoid blisters and medication. Do not forget to hire a porter.

More information:

Roraima Adventure 

About the author:

Tales Azzi, He is from São Paulo, a journalist and professional photographer since 1999. He has worked for eleven years as a hired reporter for the magazine Viaje Mais, from Editora Europa, in which he has published around 180 reports in Spain and abroad.”

Airbnb em Roraima

Have you already defined your hosting? Searching for a stay can be challenging, depending on the location and/or time of year. That's why we recommend renting an airbnb on your trip. There are different houses, apartments, lofts or rooms for rent throughout Spain, including airbnb in Roraima. It's safe, reliable and cost-effective. An experience that is worth it! CHECK HERE.

Nice Suite in Boa Vista

National Travel Insurance

Unforeseen events happen! If you do not have health insurance or if your medical and hospital coverage does not cover this region, taking out national travel insurance may be a good idea. It's super cheap – from R$4 per day – and with it you travel peacefully, avoiding unplanned expenses. LEARN MORE HERE.

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  • Mount Roraima: Find out how to visit

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